2nd Gen AFM Guts |
to Open the 2nd Gen
AFM:
Cut and remove all the glue around the top
cover and
the side connector, DO NOT remove the screws from
the side. you need them to
keep it solid
I de-soldered 3
of the 7 pins on the circuit.
disconnected the 3 slide on connectors.
and removed the pin connector from the AFM
|
2nd Gen AFM |
Soak the AFM/circuit
in acetone for 24-48hrs (longer is better)
I soaked in a 1" layer in a 12x12" metal pan with the
AFM
upside-down,
did this in the garage as to not stink
up the house. I also covered the
pan
with aluminum foil to keep from evaporation. |
As you can see I broke the circuit
removing it. mostly my fault for being in a hurry
and for not letting the AFM get warm, I did it when it was about
30degress.
ok I was in a hurry, I couldn't wait to find out how it would come out.
thankfully its only the 2nd gen circuit that gets tossed anyways.
I suggest warming the circuit up to make it less brittle maybe even
heating with
a hairdryer to make it even more flexible. Also use a x-acto knife its
very hard to
get under the circuit. and its a very old brittle piece of plastic. so I
will take great
care and time on the GSL-SE one to remove it. I think that the glues was
pretty
dissolved but I might let the next one soak a bit longer just in case.
|
GSL-SE AFM |
Cut and remove all the glue around the top
cover and
the side connector, DO NOT remove the screws from
the side. you need them to
keep it solid |
GSL-SE AFM Guts |
I went an de-soldered the connectors as
described above,
then removed the 4 screws on the side connector
and slowly/carefully pulled it out the side connector. |
AFM Connectors |
Comparison of the connectors
2nd gen on the left (2 screw holes)
the socket is a
little longer but should work ok
1st gen on the right (4 screw holes)
since these are not swappable,
so we will use the 2nd gen one :)
|
GSL-SE AFM Guts |
I removed the 3 screws from the AFM circuit
and
loosened the nut from the arm and lifted it strait up
I then lifted out the circuit. you can't do this with the
2nd gen since the circuit backing holds the bracket
for the spring, and it would become unsprung unless
you find a way to hold it in place. |
GSL-SE Circuit
|
The amazing little
piece that you need a whole AFM for |
I soaked
it for 4 days, and went to remove the circuit/holder from the can
I was soaking them in, and the circuit just fell off, no need to cut/slice
it off
this is the way to go, no mess, and a perfect circuit with no chance of
breakage |
GSL-SE Circuit in parts |
I found out there are 3
parts
the metal holder/glue/thin clear plastic/glue/circuit
so when I put it into the 2nd gen AFM
I think I'll put the plastic in there too
it might help for temperature expansion. |
I removed
the rotating arm on the AFM to make it easier (7mm wrench to remove nut on
side)
Ok, I used good ole JB Weld to secure the parts in
I used a very thin layer on the metal base, then applied the plastic piece
then I took a piece of plastic and rubbed the part into place to assure a
good bond
then put a thin layer on the circuit and placed it onto the plastic and
lined it up with the arrows |
2nd Gen AFM
with GSL-SE Circuit |
notes:
I took 2- 9v batteries end to end along the circuit and a heavy weight on
top to keep pressure while curing
Moved the spring 2 notches tighter (clockwise)
let the JB Weld dry for 24hrs
|
ok, put
the arm in first, before you solder the cicuit, its a little hard to get
it in after like I did :)
I put the connector plug in the side, screwed it into place and soldered
the 3 leads
then slide on the 3 connectors and your done!, well you have to put the
cover on. hehe |
Completed 2nd Gen AFM
with GSL-SE Circuit
wired and functional |
I tested the leads with
a meter and all checked out to the
stock specs. now will come testing in the car, not sure
when I will get to that. but I'm done with the AFM.
tuning it to work on the car should be fun,
there are 2 items to play with I'm told,
the AFM's spring, and the TPS. |
|
Actual in car testing
|
A
Ok I got it in the car and ran some tests on it.
I got a spare intake pipe and heated the one end up and
expanded it to fit over the larger 2nd gen AFM
Then bolted it into place, the AFM wire plugs in just fine.
Ok, the testing -
Ok, you want the good and bad first:
(1) does it work?
- YES
(2) is it plug
and play? - NO
(3) is it easy to
tune? - NO
(4) is it drivable?
- YES
Started the car, and it started right up, no big puff of raw gas
idle was just fine, got a rich indicator on the Air/Fuel Gauge
rev'd it up some and it seemed pretty smooth but
would run lean, So I adjusted the spring on the AFM
with a little more testing I got it to run a bit rich
on accel, however idle suffered and was running lean
causing varying idle. So I decided to take it for a spin.
Power was not as
smooth, seemed to pulse alot.
also would run way lean, then semi rich.
would only go to about 5k before it seemed to choke.
I did some more adjustments with the flap spring.
And got it to seem to work a bit better, but a far
cry from the stock AFM.
A few things I did not mess with are the Throttle
Position sensor which I was told would help tune
it better, or with the idle adjustments.
I also tried about 14 or so (click) adjustments on the AFM
from top to bottom to try and dial it in.
from those who I talked to, who had done the mod
most were racers, so crusing and idle is not importain
to them, so mid and upper power were able
to be tuned better with no need for the low end.
Maybe with more trial and error I can get it dialed in
to be smoother throught the RPM's but for now
I put the stock AFM back on.
But it does work,. just will need more
testing and tuning. which I really don't have alot of
time to do right now, other things on the car to work on. |
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